![]() ![]() If you want LOUD, you may need to look at other equipment or compromise and leave some total output on the table. It annoys me greatly, and reducing the gain remedied it. Setting the amp for maximum undistorted output, I hear the hiss when the music pauses or fades out. Other users reported a hissing noise (varies from barely noticeable to annoying) and I have the same. It works, it’s a big step up in power, and the imagining is genuinely pretty good. ![]() In my experience, there is plenty of headroom and it works fine.Įnd result: Holy Moses! I’ve been in car audio for twenty years, and I’ve seen a lot of advances over the years, but a $200 amp that automatically adjusts its own EQ and time alignment that’s the size of a brick really surprised me. Some people aren’t thrilled with sharing radio power for the head unit and this amp. It is a ridiculously tight squeeze in a 2nd gen, supposed to be better in the 3rd gen trucks.ģ. For your tuning, and any time you need to change a setting, you are now obligated to pull the radio and dig this amp back out.Ģ. Now, per the above guide and advice from others, I did keep this harness short and tuck the Kicker Key into the dash behind the stock radio.ġ. Don’t loom together two plugs that go in opposite directions for example. The two radio plugs can share loom, because they’re side by side. In particular, think about plug routing, and loom things together that belong together. Also recommend you loom the harness with Tessa tape or regular old electrical tape in a pinch. You are welcome to use crimp caps or butt connectors, but for any sort of audio wiring I usually go straight to solder and heat shrink UNLESS it’s something like an amp turn on that’s less critical. Using the above guide, I was able to build my whole harness on the bench, and make this install literal plug and play. It is not handled by the Metra harnesses, and if you want your radio illumination to work it takes a little extra effort. Pay particular attention to the “illumination pin” that needs to be dealt with. Per above, I bought the needed Metra harnesses and busted out the soldering iron. Earlier trucks I believe the wiring is different. This guide in particular helped a lot with my 2015. Huge props and thanks to both and for their guides and knowledge sprinkled through this forum. The Infinity speakers sound better, but the factory head lets them down a lot. If the factory junk did one thing well, it was make half decent bass out of 5w of power. ![]() I put as big a sheet as I could up against the outer door skin (through the speaker holes) and several smaller pieces on the inside of the inner door panel anywhere I heard rattles. Spend a few bucks, and at least cover the sheet metal around the speakers. There are many products, several work well, but the factory doors have a cartoonish absence of sound deadening (actually the whole truck does). (post #6)Īnother thing I can’t stress enough is ADD SOUND DEADENING. I’ll remind myself and follow up eventually. What I don’t remember is, did I wire red to black, or like colors. What I did was remove the factory tweeter from its mount, salvage the factory plug (seen above) connect the wires to act as a jumper, then epoxied the new tweeter to the old mount. This is because the way the wiring for the front doors flows, the tweeters and midrange speakers are wired either in series or parallel (I don’t recall which, will verify next time I have my door open.) literally, if you remove the tweeter, the midrange gets no signal. I will say that going the route I did, with an Infinity component set in the front doors and ditching the factory “2nd midrange”, you will need to bridge together the wires on the tweeter plug. There are several threads for installing door speakers in 2nd gen dual cab trucks. I will be posting links to threads by others I found helpful. The newest 2nd Gen truck’s are six years old and well known at this point. Firstly, let’s say I didn’t invent any of this stuff. ![]()
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